The Reality of Exploration and King Tut

The part we remember about exploration stories is the sudden glory of discovery- typically beyond what the determined travelers even imagined. Howard Carter finding the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922 is a great example. Today the Sea Dragon crew filed a brief note on the Sat Phone more typical of real life exploration. "Went out, found something, not what we hoped for..."


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Sea Mountain
From: "S/V Seadragon"
Date: Tue, March 30, 2010 6:16 am
To: Ron Ritter

After 2 hours of searching we did not find the sea mountain, although we did search around the plateau around 50-122m deep. The current was running at about 2 knots so we were sliding sideways in the water doing box searches. As we came in on a course of 235 degrees,as we went over the 1000m contour line the depth suddenly went to 67 metres.



You can read into this note the emotion that is so common. You're tired, you are let down from the anticipation, and the objective observer in you says you have to tell the unvarnished truth...but, you know the door is never closed and you leave open the question. It may still be there, our results are only as good as the time and technology employed...we may still find "it". This is as real as it gets

Now, what exactly were they looking for today? Sea Dragon is passing right over an 800nm chain of ancient undersea volcanoes that today terminate out in the deep Atlantic off Brazil. Two islands, Trindade and Vaz, mark the last eruption points of a hotspot (like Hawaii). to their west are now submerged "seamounts". Rising out of over 10,000' of deep clear water, most of these come to within 6-700' of the surface. Intersting but too deep to dive or sustain coral reefs. One however, the Jaseur Bank, was reported to come much closer.

Jaseur reports and the nautical charts suggest that the mountain does reach within 36' (10m) of the surface. This is really important as it is therefore easily diveable on SCUBA and would get plenty of sunlight to sustain a rich marine community. We imagine plunging coral reefs like the above picture from Palau (King Tut's tomb of coral reefs). It is also particularly interesting in that it is in International waters...just outside the economic zone of Brazil (EEZ). This means it would be un-protected by any fisheries regulation and therefore....likely hit hard by fishing vessels. Getting a look at its underwater surface would give us a strong visual indication of these impacts.

Fising outside the EEZ of any country is a virtually unregulated frontierland. Depsite the good efforts of countries like Brazil inside their EEZ, there is very little they can do to protect such waters. International treaties do cover some aspects of offshore fishing...e.g. the ICAAT for Giant Bluefin tuna- but that, among others is famously ineffective.

The important thing about exploration is to move beyond what looks like a missed target and see what you have learned. Sometimes the absence of something, in this case, shallow water, tells us much as its presence. We now know its not a typical large shallow bank. If it exists, it more likely a very specific spike of rock rising in a small area- easy to miss. This happens- Clipperton Island in the Pacific is a large flat island barely above sea level except for a few last tops to the old volcano. So it is with the St. Peter and Paul's rocks (also Brazilian) near the Equator.

To continue this exploration, we need to think about how to search the area, information from fishermen and others that would give us more clues...and then technology that would allow us to observe the bottom at "50 meters". This is right on the edge of air diving but we could do it - potentially observing the bottom from just above. Also we could team up with mixed gas certified divers...or use an underwater robot...

The true story behind Carter's Egyptian discovery is also more realistic. His truly exceptional find came after searching from 1914 to 1922. After eight years his patron Lord Carnarvon was frustrated with the lack of results. Carter got one more year. On 4 November 1922 one of his camp staff found the stairs leading to the now famous tomb.

Real life exploration

Ron Ritter

Dale on the Equator

00Degrees00Minutes00Seconds

8Knots

See no Evil, Hear no Evil, Speak no Evil.

Elton, Tommy, Stephen.

Three scared little monkeys sitting in their swimming shorts waiting to be redeemed of their sins.

Capt. Bushy reads the deed;

Neptune appears; the sins are revealed (what happens on the boat stays on the boat),
This morning we had a rotten egg and decide to toss them all away, so what better opportunity than over the lads, throw in a bit of chocolate pudding mix, flour, the slops bucket ; mix; then spread over heads, faces, bodies, everywhere ,hey after all it’s an initiation.

Traditions are traditions and we followed it to the letter. Well done Lad’s, stiff upper lip and all that.

After a quick cleanup, ( lucky we have a monster of a water maker), its back to business. A Change around of watches; Capt. Bushy takes the Silicon Valley Sisters and I have Elton, the Bahamian Brother from another Mother.

Crossing the equator @ 8 knots was a bit unusual. We were expecting squally, wild, rainy weather, but instead we smoked our way across with smooth seas. Sea Dragon kicked her heels up as she moved into familiar southern-hemisphere waters .For myself as well it was good to see the Southern Cross and other familiar constellations again, a bit nostalgic thinking of friends and family back in New Zealand enjoying the end of summer.

Elton is a good man to have on watch; always eager to help out and learn. Elton is running the Hach Meters and CO2 Sensors, collecting data, processing and sending it off. He’s the scientific part of the boat, up at all hours in the lab but always with an eye out with what’s going on in the galley.

Elton, Do you want some toast? Yes

Elton; Do you want some pasta? Yes

Elton; Are you hungry? Always. And keep him away from the chocolate.

I think he’s grown since we left the Azores. This Caribbean Cousin is a big lad.
Our days consist of boat maintenance on my part; keeping Sea Dragon charged, watered, fresh fruit rationed out, helping the boy’s refine their culinary skills in the galley (we have been feasting like kings) and exercising with Elton. We have a training circuit on the boat, push-ups, chin-ups, sit-ups, stretching, supplemented by a simple piece of rubber that sports physios use for recuperation. Got to get these boys into shape, too many computers nowadays, apart from the body being healthy, the mind needs to exercise. It’s too easy to just google everything, and have knowledge without really having done anything. You have to get out there and give it some .Nothing beats hands on experience.

Conditions have been up and down, changing sails around, pole out, pole in, engine on, engine off. We are now down into the ITCZ (International Tropical Convergence Zone)also known as the Doldrums and are experiencing the squalls, rain and shifty conditions we were expecting earlier on.

Amazing sunsets, sunrises ,moonsets, moonrises, and an almost nightly show of sheet lightning finish off natures free show, not dangerous , but spectacular ;with the best front row seats you could imagine.

It’s hot, real hot. So one afternoon we decide to block off the cockpit drains, fill it with beautiful refreshing sea-water and we have ourselves an afternoon by the pool .The only thing missing was a couple of cold beers and a B-B-Q. Actually we were testing the hatches to see if they are waterproof. (Ron; yes they are).

In the night we slide smoothly past the island of Fernando de Noronha, an area of stunning natural beauty, that was declared a Marine National Park in 1988.It has a mixed history; discovered by Amerigo Vespucci in 1503 ; used by pirates ,the Portuguese built a fort there that was later used as a prison and in 1832 Charles Darwin visited. Nowadays it lives off eco-tourism, dolphin watching, diving, surfing and sailing. A virtual paradise.

Fernando de Noronha, Ascension Island, St Helena Island, Tristan de Cunha and Trindade Island are all amazing , exotic sounding places that Sea-Dragon will be returning to this year with a fresh new crew of scientists and adventurers. There are also various sea-mounts over the South Atlantic ;one that we are heading to at this very moment to do a recon for a future expedition. Exciting stuff that makes the hair on the back of your neck stand up, just thinking about it.

Meanwhile ; Sea Dragon just keeps clocking up the miles ; 3659 nautical miles at this exact moment on this voyage .Capt. Bushy in the galley, smelling good (the food ,not Bushy).Watch change; I’m off to get a few zzzzzz’s to dream about our next port of call; Ilha Grande.Then up for the sunset spectacle. What’s it going to be today, pinks, purples, green flash, hmmmmm…………………………………………………………………..

Squalls and the Swimming Pool

We’ve reached the last week of this long leg, and we are still having a great time. The weather gets more exciting as we drop south, with daily squalls and nightly lightening storms. The squalls either blow hard, giving us reason to have a play with the sails, or roll through unassuming, rinsing off the heat of the day. One squall poured so much that I stood outside collecting runoff from the sail. Pure hydro! Good vibes are flowing amongst the crew. Despite being anxious to reach Ilha Grande, we are enjoying this journey. I am certainly making the most of this one, as it will be my last leg on the Sea Dragon after seven months at sea. This is a time for me to enjoy the company of the crew at sea, to reflect upon the adventures had, and to dream up those that are ahead.

Today we beat the heat by opening the Sea Dragon Community Swimming Pool. The drain holes in the cockpit were stopped up and hatches shut tight, making a big bathtub, which we filled with seawater. It was a novel way for us to take a dip, allowing us to cool down and make miles simultaneously. We had fun wading in the cool water as we zipped along at 7knots, and it has been decided by the captain that this will be a daily activity. I never thought I’d be relaxing in a seawater tub as I sailed across the Atlantic.

Along with the challenges and the adventures, it’s been this kind of spontaneity and fun amongst new friends that has made this journey the best months of my young life. These are the kinds of moments I’ll laugh about as I’m telling the stories years from now. Maybe it’s just me, but the little things like drinking rainwater, bathing on deck, and improvising ice cream recipes at a 30degree slant really stick to the memory, adding up to define an overall experience.

Stephen Amato

Wandering in the Realm of Dreams…………

Magical Mystical Moments...

0127 hrs Dale, Steve and Tom on watch; we amble around in the half asleep doze/alert night-watch mode; 12-15 knots of North East Trades just hanging in there, 5 Degrees North of the equator, wind dropping ,fluking around, it’s time to pull in the staysail, roll away the no 1 Yankee , pull the mainsail across and whack on Mr. Perkins our faithful motor and gain some miles towards more favorable winds. Then, Steve moving forwards towards the bow screams;

Turn off the light! Turn off the light!

Tommy; What?

Steve; Turn off the light!He turned off the light.

Steve; Do you see that?

Tommy; What?

Steve; You honestly don’t see that?

Tommy; I’m clipping in. Ooooh faaaar out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

But hang on a second; I’m getting away on myself, we’ll get back to that. We’ve just left Mindelo,Sao Vicente 4 days out of the Cape Verdes heading down to the Island Paradise of Ilha Grande. The biggest of 365 Islands just south of Rio de Janeiro. Our scheduled 3-5 days in Mindelo stretched out to 9 days due to Saturday arrival; Customs & Immigration don’t work weekends (Island Time).Steve headed off to Praia, Santiago; the main Island in the Cape Verde Islands to sort out his Brazilian visa with Tommy in tow. Things always take longer in these small island nations. They didn’t get back until Friday evening so another wait till Monday morning for departure.
Meanwhile Captain “Bushy”, Elton the Bahamian Brother and myself nutted down to some hot ,hard work on the Sea Dragon; The galley completely pulled apart, cleaned, re-organized, labeled, any excess bits and pieces of food, binned or gifted to the local boys waiting at the gates of the Marina. Cape Verde has a high level of living compared to other African nations but there is poverty. Primary schooling is available free to all, but some of these kids don’t have even have food on their plates , so seeing them go through the rubbish bins at the expensive marina is a bit of an eye opener for people more fortunate in their place of birth who have never felt hunger, ever.

We checked everything on the Sea Dragon; a good few hours was spent hanging off the rigging, looking at everything with a fine tooth comb. Chafe leathers off the shrouds, every nut, screw and bolt checked for tightness and wear. These tedious jobs have to be done to ensure safe running of the vessel. The advantage of being aloft a 100 ft above the deck is the amazing views. Mindelo has a rich history from all the whaling and trading vessels passing through for centuries into its natural harbor. There is many a shadow of wrecks sunk into the bottom of the harbor. Probably breaking from their moorings from the wind which accelerates through the anchorage, doubling in speed from the wind out to sea, which also makes it interesting hanging in the rigging; getting whipped about like a twig.

We re-stocked the boat with all the essential stores, ready for the long 2600 mile voyage ahead. The advantage of speaking Spanish/ Portuguese is being able to converse with the local people which generally makes life easier at the time of shopping, getting better prices in the various food and vegetable markets. Some of the best deals being done on the side of road with beautiful ,colorfully dressed women selling products from their own gardens; herbs, sweet potatoes, lettuce, beetroot, papaya, lemons, tomatoes, watermelon, peppers, fresh home- made goats cheese and different types of fish. This all being the staple diet along with beans and rice. The people of Mindelo, Sao Vicente are incredibly attractive. Dark skinned, many with amazing green eyes, traces of past conquerors, traders perhaps. They pride themselves on their physical prowess, everyday at all hours there was someone running, young ripped men glimmering in the sun. At sunset and at evening; women, mothers and the older guys all using the simple chin up bars and exercise equipment provided in the streets and on the beaches. There is a strong police presence at all hours. These guys are seriously fit, no coffee and donuts for them. All this good food, sun and healthy activity make for very happy, friendly and helpful people.

Elton did some beach transects and found traces of plastics as is the norm now on all islands that we have visited in the Atlantic Ocean. There IS plastic out there floating around, without a doubt. The short time I’ve been aboard, seeing the results of the trawls and beach work you just don’t realize until you actually start looking. The beaches in Sao Vicente are clean. Rubbish bins are provided and emptied regularly, no one throws litter in the street, although we did see plastic shopping bags flying through the air and rubbish in the water at the marina. All this due to the strong wind I would imagine. Every-time you buy anything from any little shop they always want to give you a one use bag. Just on this little island there must be a phenomenal number of plastic bags and plastic water bottles thrown into landfills every day. What can be done about it? We do what we can by going shopping with our re-usable bags and use stainless steel water-bottles, every little bit counts. Monday came around quick, up early, all hands on deck. Clean everything inside and out.
Clean boat; Healthy boat.

Elton, Tom and I form the fresh veg hit squad. We know where we are going and for exactly how much. Re-usable bags at the ready we buy as much locally grown produce as possible and as fast as possible, fresh lasts longer.

Any imported fruit and veg such as oranges that have been refrigerated tend to go off very quickly in the tropics. On a long trip we need to ration out the fruit so we eat healthy the whole way. It’s my job to educate these young fella’s that life does not revolve around peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and other comfort food. Everyone has a turn at cooking and once a day we all sit together and eat. A joint time as a family much like people still do in Europe but has been forgotten in other modern cultures; which is eat as fast as possible, take-out food, or in front of the T.V or idiot box. If you’ve got any gripes, nows also the time to spit it out. Sea Dragon has a good vibe so all’s good aboard with a bit of healthy banter being thrown around. The young fellas are waiting for the equator to see what Neptune will be asking of them. The traditional offering to the Sea God must be performed. Let’s wait and see what will happen with that one…..

Shopping done. The Mighty Sea Dragon gets to slip her mooring lines for a short moment to move to the fuel dock. Almost a thousand litres of fuel goes in. I race off to spend the last of our Cape Verde Escudos; the lads all want more chocolate. Little do they know, I’ll be rationing chocolate on this one, otherwise it will disappear real fast and the guilty ones will soon be known with pimples popping out all over the place.

Sea Dragon is itching at the blocks, ready to get back out on the ocean which is where she likes to be, running wild.

We leave the Cape Verdes and can still see the Islands at Sunset. The next morning we have the island of Fogo in our sights. Fogo has the only active volcano in the Cape Verdes; a very fertile island that grows coffee , citrus fruit, vegetables, grapes and makes very good white wine .As Fogo(the island of fire ) fades into the distance ,with her cone slowly smoking away, we get into our watch routine; sleep, clean, cook, sail changes ;keep the boat moving at a good clip.7 Knots minimum, the wind has been constant around 15 knots. We get a visit from a pod of roughly 100 dolphins. It doesn’t matter how many times you see dolphins their joyful frolicking makes you happy. It’s as simple as that.

The wind is starting to back a bit ,we are just hanging on to the North East trade-winds, it’s like riding a continuous wave but instead of water; wind. We mold our sails to fit the moment. We change the No. 2 Yankee for the No.1, like changing gears in a car, gives us another knot. Every knot is a mile, that’s 24 miles in a day, that’s a quicker passage. That’s Ice-Cream and Pina Coladas in Brazil, sounds good to me.

We are getting as much west in as possible to be able to gibe back further down the line and put ourselves on a broad reach, our fastest point of sail and fly down the Brazilian Coast. We still have an ace up our sleeve when the wind dies down. We’ve got a huge Gennaker sitting in the sail locker ready to go.

The miles tick over. The big ships are starting to appear coming up from Brazil, loaded with their wares; The African Hawk churns past 2 miles ahead of us, not a soul in sight, and then slowly fades into the distance. The Growth Ring on its way to Rotterdam probably loaded with timber. Makes me wonder of traders from years gone by. We still follow the trade-wind routes of mariners long gone; the currents & winds were all discovered for their consistency at certain times of year. We have books & Movies aboard about Discoverers, Pioneers & Swashbucklers and I think we all like to dream a bit about the romantic side of our voyage, the arrival in a new country like Brazil after crossing an ocean, makes you stand tall, feel good. You’ve sailed to get there, fished, braved waves and rain squalls, watched dolphins play, whales pop by to say hello, and sea-birds come & go. You feel strong, tanned and a bit salty around the gills, you see things and experience moments you can only see out here on the ocean…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

Then, Steve moving forwards towards the bow screams; Turn off the light! Turn off the light!

Tommy; What?

Steve; Turn off the light! He turned off the light.

Steve; Do you see that?

Tommy; What?

Steve; You honestly don’t see that?

Tommy; I’m clipping in. Ooooh faaaar out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I move forward to see what’s going on, then realize what’s happening; I’d told Steve about one of the most beautiful moments he would ever experience, but you don’t believe it until you see it for yourself. I watched as Tom on his first voyage and Steve now well salted; marveled, Ooohed & Aaahd at the sight of Dolphins swimming in the bow wake of the boat at night, the luminescence streaming off the perfection of their sleek bodies, lovingly kissing each other as they danced for us, painting star-dusted trails through the liquid medium of the ocean; mere words can’t describe the pure fantasy of what we were seeing. A unique memory to keep locked away forever………..

They say the first ocean voyagers, in the day when the oceans were still full of wildlife, abundant wildlife, used to see the marvel we were experiencing and throw themselves into the ocean thinking they were the most beautiful women, mermaids, calling to them……fantasy, pure fantasy, but real……… A magical , mystical moment, wandering in the realm of dreams……………………………………….

Neptune's Right of Passage

In accordance with ancient maritime tradition, the first time equator crossers aboard Sea Dragon paid penance to the sea god Neptune today. The ceremony has been a part of Naval tradition for centuries as a passage for "pollywogs" to mark their arduous crossing. Neptune, the god of all sea, brother of Jupiter and Pluto, demands penance at this critical moment. As new hemisphere crossers, we took part in a rite of passage conducted by our beloved skipper and first mate. As the minutes of latitude ticked away, the anticipation (and concern for personal safety) built. The ceremony was shrouded in mystery, and we could only guess as to what trials we would be put through. We crossed into the southern hemisphere while the setting sun set the clouds ablaze against the deep blue sky. The ceremony began in the fading twilight. First, we were sworn to silence. Ian and Dale, who were acting on behalf of Neptune, put us each on the spot. We were made to confess our sins at sea, and pelted with rotten eggs when there was any digression from the questions at hand. Once we all confessed and repented, we were cleansed by baptism in the mysterious elixir of the sea, which may have contained chocolate pudding, old rice, and cabbage, amongst other ingredients. Finally, the three of us cast material items into the ocean (all biodegradable, of course) as an offering and a sign of respect to the god of the sea. After a quick hose down and deck scrub, Elton, Tommy, and myself were welcomed into the Cult of Neptune as equator crossing sailors.

I wonder if they do this on cruise ships?

Stephen Amato

Heat

This heat is unlike anything I’ve ever felt before. As we drive further and further south towards Brazil, the temperature swells to an oppressively sticky level, sapping energy from us as if some kind of all encompassing parasite. We’ve begun the transition to a nocturnal way of life, as the sun casts a sweltering light over the Sea Dragon. During hours of daylight, we search for shade under the sails that flap in the light wind. We drink seemingly copious amounts of water to replace the constant stream of sweat pouring out of our pores. Nobody ever wears more than swim trunks, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Because our watch schedule keeps us awake and asleep at all hours, we are much more lively during the cool and calm nights. Still wearing only swim trunks, we don our life jackets and bask in the refreshing night air. Last night we took advantage of the good weather to have a play with the sails. The frustrations and irritability we were feeling from the heat and exhaustion were washed away with one breath taking moment of natural perfection.

Looking at the sea from space gives you a feel for our heat. NOAA issues this global sea surface temperature map. We are right in the middle of the red-hot band along the Equator. Ironically, or perhaps appropriately, our mission is to help understand how changes in climate will affect life on earth. Today, we feel it!

On the Sea Dragon we commonly encounter dolphins. They appear out of the blue and surf at the bow, jumping and weaving through the water. Another common occurrence is the bio-luminescence illuminating the waves rushing off the hull at night. Green sparks appear in the water, mimicking a distorted reflection of the stars above. Both the dolphins and the luminescence are amazing sights on their own. Last night, the two combined to create what must be one of the more magical occurrences in the world. As I stood at the bow in the black night, moving forward to release the staysail, I was stopped by the sound of a dolphin exhaling below me. I looked towards the sound to see trails of green shimmering water fluidly zigzagging across the bow. The dolphins agitated the phosphorescent algae to create a magical effect in the water. I called out to Tom and Dale, who promptly appeared next to me. We stood in astonishment at the natural wonder playing out before our eyes. The glowing dolphins will forever remain in my mind as one of the truly magical wonders of the world.

We continue on towards Brazil, ever enthusiastic about the prospect of paradise at Ilha Grande. Today we’ve found ourselves in squall territory, where refreshing bouts of rain fall on the boat and wash away the ungodly heat of the day. We hope to arrive in less than two weeks, which means we move with the constant chugging of the diesel engine to compensate for the lack of wind. It’s hard to keep a 40-ton boat moving with only small puffs of air. Spirits are staying high and we are all excited. Lots of laughs and plenty of good food keep us satisfied, despite the heat. The days roll by like the gentle waves, giving me time to reflect upon the my last seven months aboard the Sea Dragon before I head for home.

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Approaching to the ITCZ

Sea Dragon is now really heading south, towards the Equator and tropical weather. There is more to sailing a boat in the tropics than warmer air and fair skies. The increased heat energy drives greater evaporation, and in most cases, humidity. Felt solar energy increases significantly and will soon become more important than actual air temperature for the crew. Perhaps more significant for travelers in this region than the static Equator is the ITCZ. This "Inter Tropical Convergence Zone" is often referred to as the solar Equator. As the sun progresses north (or south) of the Equator on its annual cycle, the area of greatest solar energy moves along with it. Lagging a bit (about one month) this area of ocean surface water is the hottest, most energized area of sea surface. As such, it generates a powerful band of rising air, or convection. This creates very low surface winds...the doldrums...and lots of weather. Rising air fuels squalls and often towering thunderheads. While the winds are localized and short lived, they can be powerful. Such venting drives lightning storms, and squally winds. While not as powerful as big thunderheads on land, these compact storms generate often the only wind in the region.

If you look at the attached satellite image taken from today, you can actually see the ITCZ. It's that band of east-west clouds just north of the Equator. That is the area Sea Dragon will have to punch through.

The ITCZ is the dominant feature that the crew must now navigate through. The trick is to pick a slot through the band that avoids major convection (squalls) but at the same time takes advantage of any wind they do generate. Sailing here is tricky and unpredictable. Winds can come from virtually any direction, accelerate with little advanced warning, and drop off to zero in just a few moments. Sail changes and a lot of active steering are in order. Like some giant chessboard, the crew will watch these cells moving and do their best to set a course through the maze of rising air cells. Seeing the building clouds, feeling the wind, and watching on radar for rain bands will help them do this. We also pull down satellite imagery that give us the big-picture view of the ITCZ band.

Right now this ribbon of unstable air runs SW from about 7N off the coast of west Africa, to just north of the Equator as it approaches the Brazilian coast.

Once through to the other side, the crew will truly have passed from winter...to summer. The SE trade winds will then gradually pick up increasing the boat speed to Brazil.

Ron Ritter

In Africa

The cry of "Land ahead!" marked our arrival in Cape Verde. First ahead of us was the large mountainous island of Santo Antao, which we passed just before dawn. We were arriving in Porto Grande marina of Sao Vicente another hilly island. Unlike the Azores this island seems barren of plants. As we pulled into the marina I notice the slightly high turbidity of the green water with some areas of disturbed bottom with brown water. We entered again, the familiar routine of getting customs done...waiting. The harbor was filled with small sailing vessels on mooring buoys, and some big motor yachts.

The first person we encounter was the dock worker a nice guy named Elton, imagine that! Immediately after leaving the gates of the marina we were bombarded with some guys in tattered clothes that wanted some work and a few that just wanted money. Good guys all of them, but tough to see so many.The buildings of town were an odd mix of squarish shapes, some run-down, and others just brightly painted. In exploring the island we found a high police presence. Unfortunately we also saw while sitting on our boat 2 plastic bag kites heading out to sea to join the already polluted ocean.

On the 8th I traveled to the main public beach to do three informal beach counts. I found very few pieces of plastic; 3 straws, 4 bottle caps, and about 3 small pieces. The composition of the white and black sand was mainly made up of small black pebbles and a lot of shell fragments. This was the public beach for this city so it was kept pretty clean. There were a lot of exercising equipment on the beach, with lots of Baywatch guys using them playing soccer and jogging. On the street walking back with Dale and Ian we noticed a lot of murals saying to recycle, keep the island clean, plant trees and poverty versus education.

The Cape Verde are rougher, grittier islands than the Azores or Canaries. But they have a rich sense of life, happy people, colors and the energy of youth. Markets rich in fruits, people scrambling and, yes...the WARM air make us all feel good.

Elton Joseph

Expedition Leader at home on the Sea

What a great feeling, climbing aboard Sea Dragon again after just over 2 months of revitalizing time back home in Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Surfing, Sailing, Running, Mountain biking and kicking my 6ft bag to bits. Yachtmaster Offshore exams passed, First Aid, VHF and Medical all under my belt, I am charged and ready to take over my new position on Sea Dragon as First Mate/Engineer/Diver/Expedition Leader/Chef/Multi-use tool really. This is what I enjoy, a new challenge, and the responsibility to help make this mission/expedition that is Pangaea Explorations function. Each piece is and will be integral for success, Ron, Portia & Atlas Ritter have given us all an opportunity to participate with the mighty Sea Dragon as an awesome safe, secure operations base to raise awareness in the world about plastic residues in the oceans as well as participate in some awesome kickass maritime and terrestrial adventures, our imagination and drive are the only limits, you choose.

At Lisbon airport waiting for my flight to the Azores Islands I saw a young man with a familiar face off the Pan Explore website, new crewmember Tommy Duncan. Pangaea Explorations is about combining experience and knowledge with youth, so introducing myself to Tommy he was surprised some strange guy with a weird accent knew his name, but quickly we were chatting about what we were up for on this latest voyage from the Azores to Brazil via Cape Verde; What a trip!!!!!. Tommy not having ever sailed before was a bit nervous which is normal for a 19 yr old straight out of San Jose, California, especially after I told him about the huge swell, storm condition weather report. After a quick flight through a cornucopia of violent cloud formations, waiting for us at Horta Airport/Faial was Stephen Amato another 19 yr old Californian, Tommy’s friend and a familiar face for me as well as we had crossed the Atlantic aboard Sea Dragon in November together. Since then Steve had crossed the Atlantic again in Mid winter from Bermuda with the 5 Gyres Expedition led by Dr Markus Ericksen, shared a cabin with Dutch Artists and an awesome group of positive adventurers, braved 60+ knot winds, massive seas, filled the deckhand role with experienced Challenge Skipper Clive Cosby safely at the helm, grown a beard and transformed into a more mature salty dog type of character, only some strong experiences in the sea can do this so quickly. I was amazed at the transformation from the boy with dreams of saving the planet that I had met last October in Lanzarote/Canary Islands where I worked on the Sea Dragon, to the hairy young man with a clearer view of reality in Horta in temporary charge of the vessel that I saw now.

Waiting aboard were Elton Joseph: an affable young man from the Bahamas in charge of running the science lab and Mike Atallah/Film maker who had been aboard since Bermuda documenting the 5 Gyres voyage .

Actually stepping on Sea Dragon was a mixed feeling of being back in New Zealand going to my Mums house and having a home cooked meal or catching up with an exotic lover from the past. I have been on Sea Dragon in various ports now and it never ceases to amaze me the reactions of people to the vessel, what is she? What a seriously cooool fast looking boat! What are you doing? Wow! What’s she like to sail? It blows people away. I did the same when I first came aboard, then here I am. Thanks.

From her 100 ft raked back mast, the long sleek lines to the perfectly tuned deck and layout, oversize everything, no fuss, no fluffy extras, no hair dryers, Sea Dragon means business and is ready to go, ready to go anywhere in the world at any time with full Category 0 British Coast Guard Rating, that’s my job, keep her well oiled and ready for action.

Horta more than lived up to the weather report stormy, wet, huge waves and hurricane force winds. Captain Ian “Bushy” Buchele, our new Captain with an arms length of race experience on these same boats had delayed his arrival by five days, he knew something was up. Just enough time for me to whip the boat and crew into shape. First job; take the boys for a run in the rain to see what we had. Everyone was keen which is what counts, the boys had already been too long in port and it was time to leave, so we just got on with it. While the boys cleaned, preened, shined, sorted out the galley and stores I got on with the workings of Sea Dragon, fixing bits and pieces, changing oil, filters, basic maintenance, prevention is the best form of cure and in port it is a lot easier than in a bucking sea to do anything.

We found solace from the rain and wind in Club Naval de Horta (Jorge’s Bar): fast internet, good cheap food, friendly service and Peters Bar the famous watering hole of 100s of transatlantic boats.

Bushy was next to arrive and as fulfilled our expectations, he was all business, no bullshit, straight to work, another reshuffle of the whole boat, rig check, steering check, safety gear and briefs, no doubts in anyone’s minds that what we were going into from here on in was going to be serious and above all safety is number 1. A safe boat is a good boat. Bushy had us all on our toes, 3 days later a bit of a gap in the weather, decision made, take fuel on, last stores and next minute, drop the mooring lines, see ya later Mike (he was off to Rotterdam to film the next part of his work with Dutch artist Maarten Van de Eynde as Mike filmed us raising the mainsail inside the harbor walls anticipation was high, we were itching to get out there amongst it, the weather report was good but with strong winds and swell expected we knew we were going to get a kicking once we got out into the open ocean.
The watches were sorted as such:

A; Bushy, Steve
B; Dale, Elton & Tommy

3hours on, 3 hours off during night shift and 4 hours during the day.
We started off with lumpy seas 25 knots or so of wind, nice sailing, nothing Sea Dragon can’t handle, first night watch for Tom, first sailing, a bit of a spew and off to his bunk, best way to learn. Elton up on his feet yelling “This is what I’m talking about “The big Bahamian all of a sudden transformed into a man possessed .The Island boy enjoys being out on the ocean even if he does have an amazing capacity to fall asleep with waves breaking on his head.

Our boat speed was a constant 8-10 knots touching 15.7 knots with gusts of 48 knots, we pass a couple of days with rain, big swell, changing winds and with a weather report of heavy weather coming we put in 3 reefs and put the storm jib up, prepare for the worst, sailing a bit underpowered we put the engine on, we needed to charge the batteries anyway. Tom is wondering why he came, definitely a bit green around the gills on a diet of water and saltines but hey it’s character building and that’s what he’s here for anyway. Best way to put a few hairs on your chest. The expected weather slams us; Bushy had it all under control, good man to call the shots. Tom, Elton and I brave out a watch with constant 30+ knots of wind with gusts accelerating the boat with every blast. Totally exhilarating! Elton’s screaming with joy again, I love to play my harmonica to the wild wind and Tom’s hanging on like a sea-bot (he likes to draw robots). Then the rain hits and hits, 2hours of torrential rain & wind.
To finish off the tail end of the storm the rain suddenly stops, I’m on deck by myself and witness the most amazing lightning show I’ve ever seen: massive w’s slashing across one side of the boat and a separate bank of lightning spewing into the sea directly in front of us lighting up the whole sky with violently angry clouds. We charged forward and both banks of lightning and thunder passed on either side of us and in the space of half an hour the clouds lifted, the stars came out, the full moon poked it’s head out and there was only a slight charge still left in the clouds barreling off into the distance for Steve and Bushy to enjoy on their change of watch.
And then………………….


What never ceases to amaze me about ocean voyaging is that conditions change constantly. One minute you’re being thrown around and next the winds gone motors on and it’s time to do on -the- road maintenance. Everyone gets into the routine of watches and chores, we all share duties of cooking, cleaning and catching up on the sleep missed during heavy weather. Fishing lines go out, a constant lookout is maintained and expectation is high for the wind to come, after all this is a sailing vessel and everybody’s hungry for more.

Our Bahamian brother Elton is self designated fisherman; he seems to have a bit of a bloodlust in his eyes, a man of many surprises who would eat a whole cow if we had one on board, man the guy can eat, should be a linebacker. First fish is caught which The Boys manage to butcher instead of fillet, blood & guts everywhere, we have a bit of a learning curve here, nothing like youthful exuberance. The fish is to eat but not to forget to take liver samples to later send to Miami to analyze, every bit of information is important, the water analyzing meters are constantly running and data being sent back to the States. If more boats had this simple equipment on board we could understand our oceans so much better, knowledge is awareness.

We take advantage of motoring and have great day fishing. We finish off with an amazing fight with a striped tuna, in Spanish: UN lisado. An ocean warrior. The freezers full so the lines go away.

This is a day of calma chica (dead calm) love that saying ,so we stop the boat put the spinnaker pole up, rig a swing and go for a swim with 5000 metres of water under us, beautiful. Next act enter stage left a good size pair of whales come up to Sea Dragon for a look, one and all were amazed, who needs discovery channel or you tube when you’ve got it all on the doorstep so to speak.

Let’s get back to Tommy our new ex green crewmember.

In the last days since leaving the good ol’ US of A he has:

Been able to drink beer in a bar being the legal age limit in the Azores Islands in the middle of the Atlantic.

Vomited in the Atlantic Ocean

Helmed a 72ft open ocean racing yacht in 30 knot winds and 12 ft seas

Seen Dolphins in the wild

Witnessed thunder & Lightning

Seen the Green Flash at sunset (yes it does exist)

Seen florescence flowing down the side of the boat at night (magical)

Swam in the middle of the ocean with 5000metres of water below

Seen Whales lazily swimming by

Cleaned the heads (toilet)

Caught fish

Get woken up at 3 am and made to sit outside to look at the stars and full moon (and for boats)

Tidy his bunk (I’d like to see his bedroom at home)

Witnessed plastic floating by in the middle of nowhere.

What, plastic in the middle of nowhere: true, bloody amazing, but true. Bushy and myself, the most experienced aboard are amazed at the plastic in the ocean after doing our first plastic trawl. When we were swimming plastic is constantly floating past, you just don’t realize until you stop and look. Cruising at 7 knots you just don’t see it.

We are now 28 hours out from Mindelo, Sao Vicente in the Cape Verde, the wind is picking up and soon the Donkey will be put to bed (engine off) and we can sail into our new port of call which just happened to be where Jacques Cousteau did most of his initial diving and testing with Calypso and his groundbreaking bathyscaphe immersions. We will be conducting interviews with local divers, authorities, conservation groups, conduct beach transects, dive, prep the Sea Dragon for the next long leg of 2800 miles to Ilha Grande; a utopian paradise, free of cars, 80 miles or so south of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, the land of sun, health and samba.

Expectations are high for a cold beer (dry boat when sailing) in Mindelo. Just as I’m writing the wind has picked up, it’s 5 am, time for action.

It’s now an hour and a half later Steve, Tommy and myself have poled out the jib, the main is right out with a preventer on and we are running wing and wing @ 8 knots, Mindelo is now an E.T.A of 25 hours. Tommy has proved a quick learner and gets the idea of what to pull when. The boys have got their heads down, change of watch. Capn’ Bushy and Elton are in charge now, so it’s time to turn in.

To be continued………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….

We are Sailors Now

After 3 days of fierce storms with gale force winds, bone chilling temperatures, ferocious rain and frightening lightening storms we finally made it to calmer seas. We are riding a high pressure system straight down to Cape Verde with 1-8 kt random winds all day. This must be the most amazing sight you have ever seen! The full moon reflected on the glassy ocean water, creating day like conditions and extraordinary colors you only see in dreams. I think I may be losing weight, exercising under the moonlit skies is almost magical.

Everyone seem to be having a good time, so we stopped for a day of fun and swimming as the days and water have been heating up. I was finally refreshed as I returned to my natural element. It was surprising to see some small chub swimming below our boat, as well as the many tiny specs of life floating by. Of course our old friend plastic was already waiting for us, even 300 miles off shore. The thermo cline in the water was very obvious as it went from hot to cold and back even just floating on the surface. Boat swings, snorkeling, fresh fish and chips, what more can you ask for! Except watching the majestic beauties of the deep, surface and wave us hello on our journey south. It all ends with sailor songs on deck with Dale and Tom…as it should.

Elton Joseph

Whales and rubbish

For the past few days the sea has been an ever-shifting mirror, reflecting a distortion of the cloud streaked azure sky. Long rolling swells gently raise and lower Sea Dragon as we cut through a seemingly endless expanse of blue. The weather has improved day by day as we glide south towards Cape Verde; the only complaint being a lack of wind. Despite being mere days ago, I have trouble placing myself in the mode of foul weather gear and 40knot winds that set the tone for the start of this leg. Shorts, sunglasses, and a generous helping of sun lotion have replaced layers of clothing and a constant clamminess that comes with sailing in the N. Atlantic in winter.

Today we decided to take advantage of our good graces. The morning started off with an amazing sunrise, casting liquid gold across the deep purple ripples of this great sea. The sky was alight with a gradient of colors ranging from dark orange to pink to gold to the bluest blue you could ever hope to see whilst dry. Good weather has led to good spirits for the crew, as our third tuna has led us to another supper of fresh fish. In anticipation of a swim in the afternoon, Tommy, Elton and I rigged up a rope swing using one of the spinnaker poles. To everyone’s delight, we parked the boat this afternoon and made use of our new toy. The swing was good fun, and the water was such an ideal temperature that plunging in offered no shock, only cool refreshment. The tranquil sea and clear sky made for the strangest playground I’ve encountered; seeming more like a dream or state of mind than a physical place in the world. As if it were the icing on the surreal cake of our afternoon swim, a great baleen whale emerged from the depths within spitting distance of the boat (not that we condone spitting on whales, or any sea creatures, only conveying that it was very very close). It circled the boat a few times; emerging as a glistening grey mountain, and then plunging into the depths to show its white belly and leave a trail of whirling water.
It might seem impossible, even contrived, to find fault with such an idyllic few days, but I must confess to doing just that. Despite having near perfect weather, visits from marine mammals, and the bounty of fresh fish, I cannot help but dwell on the reality of this place and time. So far we’ve conducted two trawls, and despite seeming flawless from the deck of the boat, the sea surface produced plastic both times. Upon closer inspection the surface was dotted with synthetic fragments floating in from all over the world. Standing on deck for a minute and focusing on the water immediately below reveals permanent confetti of debris, and we’re only seeing our tiny line across this vast ocean. The fish we’ve caught and consumed carried similar fragments inside of them. My first leap on the rope swing landed me on what I mistook to be a jellyfish, and then found to be a slimy plastic film. During our 30 minute stop, I couldn’t keep plastics out of my field of view.

Seeing the marine mammals only deepened my lamentation over the ruin of the oceans. Unlike us foolish humans, who knowingly choose to eat fish poisoned by our own waste, dolphins have no choice. They must eat fish, and the fish are filled with our contaminants. The great baleen whale, largest of all creatures on this planet, sifts through the seas to feast on plankton, and undoubtedly the plastic particles the plankton are suspended with. Being thousands of miles from land, one expects to be free of the pollution that plagues land. This is not the case. Our recklessness and demand for quick convenience are leading to the ruin of the planet as a whole, both above and below the surface.

Stephen Amato

Heavy weather and boats

While there is a lot of history behind sailing crews spinning yarns about the great seas they encounter, recent news suggest the Sea Dragon may have been straight with us :)

This just in on the news wires. A 680ft (207m) cruise ship was just slammed by 10m+ waves in the Med. "The ship's owner and operator, Louis Cruise Lines, said the vessel was struck Wednesday by three "abnormally high" waves more than 33 feet (10 meters) high that broke glass windshields in the forward section. Two people died and 14 were slightly hurt, the company said." (Yahoo News source)

Ironically, despite their size and bulk, many "cruise ships" are not that capable in heavy weather. Unlike past "ocean liners" these ships have alot of freeboard (high sides) that make them vulnerable to rolling and present large areas that take such large waves broadside. Their design can also be more vulnerable - with walls of glass windows and exposed decks. In comparison, Sea Dragon may be tiny, but she is more like a heavily armor-plated piece of driftwood that moves with the sea rather than against it.

We don't like to see any accidents at sea, particularly fatal ones like this. However, in every one there is learning for the rest of us.

Ron Ritter

Thinking about the North Atlantic

The first part of this passage has been more like a re-run of the Bermuda leg. Catching the bottom edge of the same storms that are pounding Europe,the crew has hit 15kts of boat speed, seen 50kts of wind, and had its first real lightning storm. Dale was on watch after midnight when what seems to have been a classic frontal line came through. Like a ribbon of swirling ink, these dark fronts roll across the sky with major vertical turbulence. Rising air accelerates to spool up powerful, sudden winds. Dale describes a fantastic light show with one bolt clearly hitting the water. These are times you appreciate being in a steel boat- they do much better at defusing and harmlessly transmitting any electrical energy.

However, now things are changing dramatically. The weather is good, we are motoring across flat seas with only 4-8kts of wind. Out of the foulies and into the shorts. We've done two trawls, each producing plastic and strange blue jellies. The trawling we do south of the Azores - and all the way in to Brazil - will be an important addition. We have a much better idea about conditions inside the Gyre as an expected accumulation zone. However, the team's finding of an almost uniform soup of smaller plastic bits suggest conditions may be different in the Atlantic. What may be occuring here is an equally large, serious infusion of plastic debris, but one that is much more dispersed. The specific currents in the Atlantic, or perhaps the higher frequency of heavy weather may be behind this. Could it be that the Atlantic has a broad, swirling mass of plastic that is more "stirred up" than the North Pacific? This also makes sense with what we saw earlier in the Canaries. There not only did we see the piles of beach plastic, but the water flowing past the islands was full of passing debris. Trawling all the way, 5000nm, to Brazil will give us some insight.

For now the team sails, trawls and looks for warmer, calmer weather south. Less than 3 days to CV!

A new world of adventure begins

The Azores are a beautiful set of islands. Although, I have to say that they would have been a lot been a lot better during the summer when it was not as cold! It rains or drizzles randomly everyday without fail. The temperature drops when the wind comes off the snowy mountain of the nearby island or one of the high hills of Fayal. We visited the caldera on the island it was an amazing sight as we drove up into the clouds. Even more breathtaking was the caldera itself, an untouched hole in the ground with ponds inside.

The closer we got to leaving the colder the weather got, one night we got pelted by marble sized hail which rattled inside the metal hulled boat. It was time to go and after 3 days of boat cleaning about time. Said later to my constant silvery chub friends in the water who would constantly flash you as you passes by. Chub and barracuda seem to be the only fish I have seen living in the marina next to our boat, but since you cannot go swimming in the water there may be more.

We have finally left the Azores, with a pack of 10 common dolphins leading our way at our bow, as we said our last goodbyes. A good start to an interesting day. It was not long before we started experiencing squalls of up to 49 kts winds, high waves and some rain with a touch of sea sickness. But still we enjoyed watching our heavy steel hulled boat hit 15kts heading out of the cold climate, giving high hopes of the warm weather ahead. We are finally out of the 200 EEZ areas of the Azores and have started the CO2 and pH sensors.

Elton Joseph

A good, rough start

We've been out of Horta Harbor for over 24 hours with early calm seas and light winds. Past the lee, we got quite a surprise. The weather has been consistently sour; winds are gusting to 49knots- strong gale Force 9 with periodic squalls. The waves are rough with torrents of sea-spray. For some of us, this is nothing new. It only evokes memories of passages in the past, i.e. our intense four day stretch between Bermuda and the Azores. For others, however, this is all they know. Our newest crew member has been toughing out with the rest of us, staving off sea sickness. Tom's morale is high; although I’m sure the foul weather hasn’t made for the best first impression of the sea. I am reminded of my first passage, from Lymington, England, to Portugal. Rough weather similar to this instilled a sense of fright, which was combated by my calm and collective crew. However, sailing shorthanded adds fatigue into the mix, so I hope that the weather will ease and warm as we continue our descent to Cape Verde. For now, the next 48 hours look to increase our weather. The latest 48 hour radiofax shows a fairly compact, but strong low developing towards us. Once Sea Dragon clears 27N, about the latitude of the Canary Islands, winds should decrease dramatically. On we go.

Stephen Amato

To Summer- Sea Dragon Departs

The mental rot of being in port- close to land and in the flat water of the harbor - was beginning to set in as our time in the Azores approached two weeks. Anxious to head south and escape the wet, windy weather of the North Atlantic, the last few days have been a frenzy of preparation and anticipation. We were set to leave yesterday (2/25) afternoon, but a system error with a new fire sensor ended up keeping us ashore as Dale worked out a solution into the night. The problem was fixed and we turned in early, eager to rise at dawn and shove off.

We left the dock around 0900 today, waved goodbye to our friend Mike, and raised the sails for Cape Verde. The seas have been calm, compared to the monster low pressure systems we’ve been sitting through, and the sky is relatively clear; painted with rainbows in all directions. A pod of dolphins escorted us out for over an hour, jumping and whistling at the bow. They seemed to instill even more enthusiasm into our green crew, both of whom are staving off seasickness to pull their weight.

We’ve got about a weeks’ worth of sailing to reach Cape Verde. We are anxious for warm sun and seas, which will arrive in no time as we drop straight south. The weather reports suggest good wind and weather, warming with every degree of latitude we drop.

Sea Dragon will now push south-southwest for over 5,000nm. We will cross the equator, the infamous "inter-tropical convergence zone", doldrums, pass a set of tiny mid-ocean rocks called St. Peter and Paul, and then head into Brazil. We continue the research story of marine plastics- now sampling in waters seldom investigated. The boat is also carrying an important new CO2 sensor. Once in international waters we will activate the sensors and begin recording this important data.

On to summer!

Stephen Amato

Reflections from a new mariner

Island of the whales, Azores the volcanic island of beauty. Here I completed my first Atlantic crossing on a sailboat. Now most of our great crew from Bermuda has left, and only three crew members are left. This was an exciting journey, filled with discovery. Many stories and experiences of my boat watch crew still sit on the forefront of my memories. I’ve learned so much about the major environmental problems us humans create in an effort to destroy our selves and the planet we inhabit. This has been a life changing trip for me; I learned many life lessons that I take to heart.

Our relaxing exploration of the Azores was short lived, as when the new crew Dale and Tom arrived and boat work began. The maintenance to make the boat perfect before the new captain arrived began. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I will admit my first time seeing snow couldn’t have been better than seeing snow on top of the neighboring volcanic island of Pico.

This trip has provided a lot of firsts for me. First time: sailing, crossing the Atlantic on a boat, seeing snow, traveling alone, learning about plastic in the ocean, etc. I’ll never forget what I have seen or learned, and I hope that someday I can impart my knowledge to the future generations.

On a lighter note after 2 days of work and some time at the shop we got the CO2 sensor installed and working. We are currently working on calibration and testing. This unit will be an important new research contribution for Sea Dragon. Collaborating with NOAA, this will hopefully help pave the way for more such sensors on private yachts. Sunburst Sensors in Missoula Montana is working closely with us on the unit. We are currently in a holding pattern, waiting for a new, major low pressure system to clear out. Our plan is to head out on 23 February - straight south!

Elton Joseph

High Seas Science - first impressions

The Journey started in sunny Bermuda although there were days where the weather went south and we experienced gale force winds. Bermuda was a beautiful island, with pink sand beaches, although there were also a lot of plastic particles. During the short week in Bermuda the Hach Hydrolab MS5 sensor and CO2 sensors were installed. But unfortunately the CO2 sensor malfunctioned before we started the journey and had to be sent back for repairs. On 28 January 2010 we set out on our Atlantic expedition.

The Sea Dragon traveled at an average speed of 7 knots towards the Sargasso center except when trawling for plastic when the speed dropped to between 1-2 knots. After a rocky start with the data collected the Hach sensor was re-calibrated and work perfectly thereafter. The temperature increase from 19C to around 22C as we headed east south east towards the Sargasso sea center.

The closer we got the Sargasso center the worst the weather became, we experienced 3 days of gale force winds and waves. During two of those days, 2nd and 3rd of February, the sensor had to be cut off due to errors readings caused by the wave action on the vessel. On February 10 2010 about 200 miles off the coast of the Azores the sensor was shutdown and the last data packet sent off. The temperature as expected dropped as we got closer to the Azores heading north east, dropping to around 16.4C. The pH varied slightly between 8.04 and 8.16 averaged at 8.08, while salinity followed suit ranging from 36.14-40.27 and averaging around 37.5. The values attained for pH seems to be lower than the global mean while the values collected for salinity seem range higher.

The Azores are a group of volcanic islands off the south western coast of Europe. We quickly noticed how clear the water was as we drew near to the man made protected marina ,in a naturally formed cove, between Faial and Pico. The staff were doing marina construction when we arrived including some dredging.

The construction in the marina created heavy sediment areas in the water but these were quickly dissipated by the amazing natural flushing of the basin. The marina is also a Blue Flag Certified site. This Blue Flag is used by the EU to certify marinas and beaches meeting a certain environmental standard. The beaches on Fail are all black sand and smoothed black pebble beaches. We have also seen a lot of plastic all of them, small and large pieces like buckets and fuel tanks.

The next part of the journey will lead us south to Cape Verde. During this time we will continue out to international waters to collect to more water quality data. In addition to the Hach sensor the CO2 sensor will also be installed which will make for some exciting data. We expect temperature to increase, and pH and salinity to continue in the same range.

Elton Joseph

Land-Ho

As the TTA (Time To Arrival) dropped from days to hours, the vibe amongst the crew turned from anxious to zealous with the notion of making landfall on the other side of the ocean, which we had set out on 14 days before. I was woken up at 0600 with Stiv, Leslie, and Elton, for our 0600-1200 watch. As the sun rose we eagerly scanned the horizon to the east, trying to discern low-lying clouds from high, rugged islands. I stood at the bow, armed with the ships’ bell and binoculars, ready to ring in the standard “LAND HO!!”

Clive caught me off guard and pointed our collective gaze to the small outcrop of rock that makes up the north end of the island of Horta. We shook the bell and cried out, slowly rousing others from their bunks below. Wing on wing, we were headed straight for land with only a few hours and miles between it and us.

Eventually we were all on deck, all smiling and laughing with the mutual excitement. For many of us this was our first ocean crossing, a kind of experience that puts people and the planet into an otherwise unobtainable perspective. Some of us stood at the bow silently, smiling at the accomplishment that was soon to be realized.
Clive took the helm and began our final approach through the channel to the harbor. As if instinctual, he delicately rode the wind in a way that saved us unnecessary tacking and made sail dropping easy. While perfectly skirting along the breeze, he orchestrated the deck crew in a frenzy of sail dropping, line running, and fender tying.

We tied up to the colorful customs quay and leapt for land. Taking full advantage of the solid earth beneath us, we ran, jumped, and laid down on the terra firma that we often take for granted. Unfortunately a few of the crew were more comfortable on the boat than on the ground, and stayed aboard for a few hours to avoid land-sickness.
Approaching the marina, I was struck by the brightly painted docks and pontoons. Apparently it is bad luck to leave Horta without leaving a mark, making the marina a colorful collage of sailors’ art. Behind the marina lies the town of Horta, an old whaling town turned charming village on the sea. Much of the history remains intact, as narrow cobbled streets weave through eclectic and dilapidated buildings. The people of the island were very welcoming, offering smiles and kind words for sailors who have been without contact for probably too long. In short, it is good to be back on land. After a few weeks of solitude at sea, we eagerly embraced the freedoms and comforts afforded on land. However, we all look back fondly on the ocean we’ve crossed; the ocean that taught us so much about the amazing world we are a part of.

New Crew

Sailing vessels, expeditions, and especially families need the best of crew. Today, we are glad to announce a major new addition. Atlas Seymour Ritter, 8 lbs 11oz was born today- latest member of the Pangaea-Sea Dragon Crew. Although new, the young mariner is no stranger to the high seas. He has more months than we'd like to admit under his belt as a junior shipwright - helping his mom on the long refit in the UK. Following this, he set out with the team, safely inside the belly, and sailed over 3,000 miles from the UK south to the exotic Cape Verde Islands. He's a salt for sure - and destined to be part of the adventure team for a long time to come.

The future is about children. We hope the seas of tomorrow will be as rich in life, beauty and wonder as they were for us. Atlas and his generation deserve no less. Sea Dragon's crew is working hard to make that happen. As parents, we thank you.

The Sea Dragon crew got word of his arrival sailing several hundred miles south-west of the Azores- heading into port. They send this wonderful photo over the satellite links announcing his arrival to the sea. Atlas, Welcome to the World. We all love you and look forward to many adventures in the long and interesting journey ahead.

Ron and Portia Ritter

All Clear - time to go in

This storm was really the perfect storm; stirred but not shaken with a sense of danger but not dangerous. Just a nice taster for green fish like us. The wind reached its highest peak the second day, up to 60 knots (111 km)! The boat rocked day and night like a cradle on speed. There was no way stopping it or even slowing it down. It kept going and going and going.

During the morning shift the wind drops and the mountains return to hills. We can use the main sail again for the first time in days and decide to rush to the Azores as soon as possible. We’ve all had it, and since this is a ‘dry-boat’ (no alcohol) all we can think of now is beers, beers and cheers!

Maarten Vanden Eynde


Today has been amazing. The clouds parted, wind dropped, and seas settled. After 3 days of dumping waves and howling winds, morale was greatly boosted by such a nice day. We even got some dolphins, and Stiv snapped the awesome photo attached. We are now going wing-on-wing at 11 knots straight for the Azores

Stephen Amato

Laughing in 50 knots

I watched John approaching my bunk in the rocking, green LED lit corridor. 0545: he was coming to wake us up for our next six-hour watch.

“Steve, time for your--“

“Yep. I’ve been counting the minutes.”

Gale force winds and battering waves kept me awake while the rest of the off-watch crew caught up on sleep. I laid in my bunk for hours, in hopes of finding the perfect song on my iPod to lull me to slumber. The sleep never came, so instead I let my mind wonder on how I ended up in the North Atlantic in February, a place few are fortunate to experience.

I layered on pants, sweaters, and full foul-weather kit before daring to climb onto the soggy deck. Below, the pounding of a rogue wave and the sweeping slurry of water that follows warned us that it would be a rough, wet morning. We weren’t disappointed.
We climbed into the dark morning at 0600, and huddled together for what was sure to be a good six hours. The wind was gusting above 50 knots and we were hitting 8 knots of boat speed with only the storm staysail, a piece of cloth hardly bigger than a windsurfer’s sail. As the sun rose, we made out the steel grey expanse stretching from horizon to horizon, churning all the way. Sea Dragon swayed back and forth as if trying to stay planted on the back of an unruly elephant. Wind whipped the grey water into wrinkles and washed our exposed faces with a cold spray. At almost regular intervals, rogue waves would smack the hull and send a torrent of water punching across the cockpit. I could usually tell when these waves would hit by watching the facial expressions of Stiv and Leslie on the starboard side. Seeing them drop their jaws and then preemptively wince, I knew to duck down before the deluge of seawater came over my back.

Eventually I looked over my shoulder to see the goliath waves rolling towards us. My eyes went skyward as the crest of a wave stood well above me, only to pick up the boat and slip out the other side. The rough walls of water rose over 30 feet from the canyon-like troughs between them. We sat in awe of the power we were witnessing. Endless expanses of waves big enough to swamp suburbs, and wind fit to knock down trees, reminded us that we are only as big as the ocean will let us be. The shape-shifting beast was roaring a warning, and we weren’t in the mood to test it.
We counted down the time by sending somebody below to fill in the logbook and bring back coffee and Clif bars, every hour on the hour. The 10 minutes spent below deck were rejuvenating and reassuring. Despite the maelstrom up top, the inside of the boat was quiet, dry, and warm.

There’s no use in grumbling about a situation you’re stuck in. Although conditions left a lot to be desired, we did our best to make the most of it. Rogue waves resulted in shouts of excitement, and bursts of sea spray to the face were cause for hysterical laughter. We placed bets on highest wind speed (51.2 knots) and treated the huge hills of water like the descent of a roller coaster, throwing our arms in the air and crying out in thrilled laughter as we surfed down the faces. Either we were making light of the situation or losing our minds, but the watch passed surprisingly well.

The last 10 minutes on deck were the longest of my life. As we waited for the next watch team to relieve us, clammy cold soaked into our hands, feet, and faces. Thoughts of warm dry bunks made the cold bite hard and the waves whip harder. Finally, heroes clad in the same costumes as us clambered on deck and let us retire to the warm belly of the boat. We eagerly stripped off the soaked layers, and embraced the revitalizing qualities of hot lentil soup and fresh biscuits. Minutes later I was hunkered down in my bunk, falling asleep to the whistles of the wind and the delighted cries of the fresh crew on deck.

Stephen Amato and Elton Joseph

Watching the Weather

There are rare times when the drama of the high seas spreads all the way back to the "support" team members. On this leg, with Portia now 8 days from due, I find myself in that behind the scenes role. We watch the email, blogs and the phones for news. Talking through the satellites several times a day- we watch over the boat. The most important on shore role is watching the weather - or "wx".  Sea Dragon is able to get accurate real time wind, wave and pressure data over the Iridium in what are called "grib files". These compressed data files allow MaxSea to create a picture of forecast condition as far out as 16 days. On shore, however, we have much more data to work with thorugh the full internet. Our major sites are NOAA's Marine Weather Service (like on land but with different data), various satellite imagery sites, and one dedicated to sailors - Passage Weather. Through these sites we can watch several main information sources that give us a fairly good idea what is headed towards the boat.

I always start with the primary source, NOAA graphical forecast sources. Here are the graphical depictions of current and forecast weather out to 96 hours - 4 days. These are also the exact charts that are broadcast on radio-fax over the long-range HF radio. Possibly the most important of these charts is the Surface Forecast. This shows a set of contoured lines depicting air pressure gradients. Here is where we see the classic weatherman type images of the low and high pressure systems. As important as the systems themselves, are the gaps between them. Spacing between the lines translates into relative wind speed - tight spacing= steep gradients =higher winds.  These charts also give the expected wind speeds, and comments on the future development of the system. Right now, we have a significant system developing to the WSW of Sea Dragon (see the two surface forecasts above- these are the real thing). This is a powerful low that is rapidly intensifying (sometimes called a "bomb"). Within 48 hours, the team will have a hurricane force low pressure system approximately 700 miles to their north (38N). Wave heights in the core will exceed 14m (40'+) . Fortunately, they are holding south of 30 N and should not see more than 40kts and 5m waves. What you see in the two images are expected conditions at 0000Z GMT- or just about midnight London time. We watch these "extra-tropical" lows carefully because their route can change, and because they are simply very, very large storms.

You can also read the forecasters interpretation of the weather as a text narrative. The most recent "High Seas" text forecast for the area is as follows:

HURRICANE FORCE WIND WARNING
.LOW 37N60W 989 MB MOVING NE 30 KT AND RAPIDLY INTENSIFYING.
FROM 32N TO 39N BETWEEN 55W AND 63W WINDS 40 TO 55 KT. SEAS 12
TO 20 FT. ELSEWHERE FROM 31N TO 42N BETWEEN 50W AND 74W WINDS 25
TO 40 KT. SEAS 8 TO 15 FT.
.06 HOUR FORECAST LOW 38N57W 976 MB. WITHIN 180 NM SW SEMICIRCLE
WINDS 55 TO 70 KT. SEAS 15 TO 25 FT.
.24 HOUR FORECAST LOW 41N46W 951 MB. WITHIN 180 NM W AND SW AND
240 NM S QUADRANTS WINDS 60 TO 75 KT. SEAS 22 TO 40 FT. ALSO
WITHIN 480 NM SE AND 300 NM NW SEMICIRCLES WINDS 45 TO 60 KT.
SEAS 20 TO 36 FT. ELSEWHERE FROM 31N TO 49N E OF 66W WINDS 30 TO
45 KT. SEAS 12 TO 25 FT. HIGHEST WINDS AND SEAS S QUADRANT.
.48 HOUR FORECAST LOW 46N41W 940 MB. WITHIN 360 NM S SEMICIRCLE
WINDS 50 TO 65 KT. SEAS 30 TO 48 FT. ALSO FROM 32N TO 60N E OF
54W WINDS 35 TO 50 KT. SEAS 20 TO 38 FT. ELSEWHERE FROM 31N TO
65N E OF 60W WINDS 25 TO 35 KT. SEAS 14 TO 28 FT.

This is also a time when we appreciate Sea Dragon's heritage. These boats were built for this- designed to work through the worst sailing conditions on earth. Whether in the Southern Ocean on a race, or doing important research in the North Atlantic - the Sea is not your friend. We invest alot of engineering, systems, training and attitude up front so that conditions like this can be managed.Some would even say "enjoyed"...

Sea Dragon will be safe, but the team will have a rough several days ahead of them. Trawling will be difficult if not impossible for now. They key is to get them through this and in a position to use the final days productively. This should then position them just South of the Azores in time to reach north and into port. Watch the weather through these sites to understand the challenges the team faces. Never a dull moment...even back here in the "support role".

Ron Ritter

Day 5...Dolphins and Garbage

We are five days from Bermuda, and a bit more than halfway to our waypoint in the center of the North Atlantic Gyre. Despite a bout of rough weather, and the confusion that comes with being new to the sea, the crew is getting along splendidly. The mission of studying plastics makes bobbing about at 2 knots during a 25 knot broad reach semi-bearable. Morale is high as we are more than a third of the way into the trip, and we continue to trudge along into the ever-thickening plastic whirl we set out for.

Having 13 people living on a 72ft long island in the North Atlantic, in January, seems like the makings of some strange reality TV show. The producers would be sorely disappointed with our crew, as we’ve managed to get along famously through good and bad alike. The measure of people’s patience seems to go farther than the measure of their tempers, because in the five rough days we’ve been out we’ve managed to stay civilized. A major reason for this is the building sense of camaraderie amongst us all. Between sharing rough 6-hour watches with, sharing domestic duties, and sleeping within smell-range of each other, we’ve all come to trust and respect those around us. Going to sea with a group of people is like concentrated team building. You can make lifelong friends or foes in days, and the bonds forged are strong enough to deal with the worst that is thrown at you.
Our mission of finding and researching the plastic gyre in the North Atlantic is a sort of tragic success. I was roused from my bunk this morning by ecstatic cries of “Dolphins! Dolphins!” Sure enough, a small pod of spotted dolphins was playing around the boat as we slowly motored along. They leapt in pairs before the bow, and ducked below the hull the to pop out on the other side. The sight of dolphins always elicits a sort of giddy excitement; perhaps because you can’t watch them without wishing you could join them. This excitement soon turned to disgust, as we noticed the dolphins diving through patches of plastic debris. Bottles caps, fishing line, and miniscule fragments littered the playground of these amazing mammals.

Before this we had been trawling for about an hour, dragging a 300micron manta trawl to collect a quantifiable amount of plastic debris. The trawl was pulled up and produced a mere five fragments of plastic. Ironically, as if led by the dolphins, we found ourselves frantically scooping debris with a team of four nets only twenty minutes later. The sight was shocking: 1000miles from anywhere and we were sifting through more trash than we could handle. Still, we are 400 miles from what we believe to be the center of the gyre. If we’ve scooped up toothbrushes, shotgun shells, fishing crates, and water bottles this far out, I’m a bit afraid to see what turns up at the center of this mess. One of the more frightening factors is that we are only scratching the surface. As we witnessed today, and many times before, plastic has a density so close to water that a bit of a push sends it spinning down below our reach. With the constant churning of waves and wind, it’s probably safe to assume that what we see on the surface is only the beginning.

There is a strange dichotomy playing out amongst our crew. Despite our abhorrence of plastic waste, we can’t help but get excited when we spot debris. We spot and scoop and sift plastic from the sea with a sort of enthusiasm that still strikes me as not fitting. Perhaps it’s the ability to say, “I told you so,” or the collection of data to add to the arsenal in this battle against single use products. Maybe it’s just something to do when you are days out to sea. Regardless of individual reasons and agendas, everyone continues on with the kind of sturdy enthusiasm needed for our mission. We are doing well in terms of staying civil. To stay busy, we play poker for clothes pins and give daily presentations on various topics of personal interest, everything from film making to short stories to new sciences. Courtesy is abundant, as we have all come to appreciate the boost in morale that comes from a simple salute of “good morning,” or “great job.” We spent the past 36 hours rocking in the wake of a rough low front. The boat was essentially parked to keep us from making too much ground on our schedule of trawls. I’ve got to hand it to our skipper Clive: the fact that he can go from pushing these boats to the limit around the world, to slowing it to a dead stop in the name of science, is a testament to the guys patience. Everyone’s patience has been tested over the past few days, but nobody has been pushed. Good vibes are abundant as we continue on.

Stephen Amato

Day 5 Dolphins and Garbage

We are five days from Bermuda, and a bit more than halfway to our waypoint in the center of the North Atlantic Gyre. Despite a bout of rough weather, and the confusion that comes with being new to the sea, the crew is getting along splendidly. The mission of studying plastics makes bobbing about at 2 knots during a 25 knot broad reach semi-bearable. Morale is high as we are more than a third of the way into the trip, and we continue to trudge along into the ever-thickening plastic whirl we set out for.

Having 13 people living on a 72ft long island in the North Atlantic, in January, seems like the makings of some strange reality TV show. The producers would be sorely disappointed with our crew, as we've managed to get along famously through good and bad alike. The measure of people's patience seems to go farther than the measure of their tempers, because in the five rough days we've been out we've managed to stay civilized. A major reason for this is the building sense of camaraderie amongst us all. Between sharing rough 6-hour watches with, sharing domestic duties, and sleeping within smell-range of each other, we've all come to trust and respect those around us.  Going to sea with a group of people is like concentrated team building. You can make lifelong friends or foes in days, and the bonds forged are strong enough to deal with the worst that is thrown at you.

Our mission of finding and researching the plastic gyre in the North Atlantic is a sort of tragic success. I was roused from my bunk this morning by ecstatic cries of "Dolphins! Dolphins!" Sure enough, a small pod of spotted dolphins was playing around the boat as we slowly motored along. They leapt in pairs before the bow, and ducked below the hull the to pop out on the other side. The sight of dolphins always elicits a sort of giddy excitement; perhaps because you can't watch them without wishing you could join them. This excitement soon turned to disgust, as we noticed the dolphins diving through patches of plastic debris. Bottles caps, fishing line, and miniscule fragments littered the playground of these amazing mammals.     

       

Before this we had been trawling for about an hour, dragging a 300 micron manta trawl to collect a quantifiable amount of plastic debris. The trawl was pulled up and produced a mere five fragments of plastic. Ironically, as if led by the dolphins, we found ourselves frantically scooping debris with a team of four nets only twenty minutes later. The sight was shocking: 1000 miles from anywhere and we were sifting through more trash than we could handle. Still, we are 400 miles from what we believe to be the center of the gyre. If we've scooped up toothbrushes, shotgun shells, fishing crates, and water bottles this far out, I'm a bit afraid to see what turns up at the center of this mess. One of the more frightening factors is that we are only scratching the surface. As we witnessed today, and many times before, plastic has a density so close to water that a bit of a push sends it spinning down below our reach. With the constant churning of waves and wind, it's probably safe to assume that what we see on the surface is only the beginning.

There is a strange dichotomy playing out amongst our crew. Despite our abhorrence of plastic waste, we can't help but get excited when we spot debris. We spot and scoop and sift plastic from the sea with a sort of enthusiasm that still strikes me as not fitting. Perhaps it's the ability to say, "I told you so," or the collection of data to add to the arsenal in this battle against single use products. Maybe it's just something to do when you are days out to sea. Regardless of individual reasons and agendas, everyone continues on with the kind of sturdy enthusiasm needed for our mission. We are doing well in terms of staying civil. To stay busy, we play poker for clothes pins and give daily presentations on various topics of personal interest, everything from film making to short stories to new sciences. Courtesy is abundant, as we have all come to appreciate the boost in morale that comes from a simple salute of "good morning," or "great job." We spent the past 36 hours rocking in the wake of a rough low front. The boat was essentially parked to keep us from making too much ground on our schedule of trawls. I've got to hand it to our skipper Clive: the fact that he can go from pushing these boats to the limit around the world, to slowing it to a dead stop in the name of science, is a testament to the guys patience. Everyone's patience has been tested over the past few days, but nobody has been pushed. Good vibes are abundant as we continue on.

Stephen Amato