Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Heat


This heat is unlike anything I’ve ever felt before. As we drive further and further south towards Brazil, the temperature swells to an oppressively sticky level, sapping energy from us as if some kind of all encompassing parasite. We’ve begun the transition to a nocturnal way of life, as the sun casts a sweltering light over the Sea Dragon. During hours of daylight, we search for shade under the sails that flap in the light wind. We drink seemingly copious amounts of water to replace the constant stream of sweat pouring out of our pores. Nobody ever wears more than swim trunks, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Because our watch schedule keeps us awake and asleep at all hours, we are much more lively during the cool and calm nights. Still wearing only swim trunks, we don our life jackets and bask in the refreshing night air. Last night we took advantage of the good weather to have a play with the sails. The frustrations and irritability we were feeling from the heat and exhaustion were washed away with one breath taking moment of natural perfection.

Looking at the sea from space gives you a feel for our heat. NOAA issues this global sea surface temperature map. We are right in the middle of the red-hot band along the Equator. Ironically, or perhaps appropriately, our mission is to help understand how changes in climate will affect life on earth. Today, we feel it!

On the Sea Dragon we commonly encounter dolphins. They appear out of the blue and surf at the bow, jumping and weaving through the water. Another common occurrence is the bio-luminescence illuminating the waves rushing off the hull at night. Green sparks appear in the water, mimicking a distorted reflection of the stars above. Both the dolphins and the luminescence are amazing sights on their own. Last night, the two combined to create what must be one of the more magical occurrences in the world. As I stood at the bow in the black night, moving forward to release the staysail, I was stopped by the sound of a dolphin exhaling below me. I looked towards the sound to see trails of green shimmering water fluidly zigzagging across the bow. The dolphins agitated the phosphorescent algae to create a magical effect in the water. I called out to Tom and Dale, who promptly appeared next to me. We stood in astonishment at the natural wonder playing out before our eyes. The glowing dolphins will forever remain in my mind as one of the truly magical wonders of the world.

We continue on towards Brazil, ever enthusiastic about the prospect of paradise at Ilha Grande. Today we’ve found ourselves in squall territory, where refreshing bouts of rain fall on the boat and wash away the ungodly heat of the day. We hope to arrive in less than two weeks, which means we move with the constant chugging of the diesel engine to compensate for the lack of wind. It’s hard to keep a 40-ton boat moving with only small puffs of air. Spirits are staying high and we are all excited. Lots of laughs and plenty of good food keep us satisfied, despite the heat. The days roll by like the gentle waves, giving me time to reflect upon the my last seven months aboard the Sea Dragon before I head for home.

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